a CLOSER look home inspections

“Did you look at the furnace?”

“The furnace comes on for a while and then shuts back down. Didn’t you notice that in the inspection?”

“How do you know the furnace was working during the inspection?”

These are all questions that I have been asked through the years (more than once). This post is designed to allow anyone to look at how a CLOSER look home inspections performs an inspection of a traditional gas furnace from a procedural perspective.

Sections on this page

1. Exterior condition, make and age
2. Flue, make-up air and combustion ventilation
3. Combustion chamber and inner cabinet
4. Temperature output

Exterior condition, make and age

We start the inspection of a gas furnace by first looking at the outside condition of the unit itself. We look for signs of rust and leaking from the flue or condensate drains. Rust on the exterior can be a sign of a past or current water leak that may have affected the heat exchanger or combustion chamber. These same water leaks can, if left unrepaired, damage the flooring under the furnace. We also look at the furnace inspection covers to ensure they are present and are securely attached (hence they will not rattle when the furnace is running).

• We report any abnormalities that, in our opinion, would require repair or replacement of the furnace.
• We report the make, age and size of the furnace.

Flue, make-up air and combustion ventilation

Next, we evaluate the flue of the furnace to ensure that it has a positive slope (meaning that gasses will be continually pushed upward in the flue), there are no breaks or deterioration and it is made out of an appropriate material. It is very common at this point to notice a stain on the ceiling around where the flue exits a finished room or closet. This is a common point of leaking and usually not active (oddly enough). Many times homeowners will fix a leak around the flue on the roof or re-roof their house, but forget to repair the stain around the flue. Since this is usually not a living area and people don’t see it and thus is not a priority. We then visually inspect all gas supply lines and then “sniff” each connection that is physically accessible with a gas leak detector to ensure there are no small gas leaks. Finally, we ensure there is an air vent on the ceiling and one on the floor. Most houses in Springfield MO and Branson MO are single level ranch style houses that have furnaces either in a closet in the hallway or in the garage. Either way, these vents allow you to seal the room and the gas burners will not run out of oxygen. The make-up and comnbustion vents are necessary for the proper function of the gas appliances and should never be blocked.

• We report on any flue problems in need of correction, and any safety hazards.
• We report on any gas supply leaks or anomalies.
• We report any blocked or missing air vents in furnace rooms.

Combustion chamber and inner cabinet

We visually inspect the inside of the furnace cabinet for signs of damage, water leaks and overheating. Additionally, we inspect the filter system on furnace units with filters inside the furnace cabinet. Next, we evaluate the gas combustion chamber for signs of rust build-up, leaking or visible cracks. Cracks are hard to visually detect, but if found show that there is a safety hazard present as this will allow carbon monoxide (CO) into the house. However, we do not guaranty against heat exchanger cracks and do not provide a camera scope of the heat exchanger, which is a specialist inspection. We then turn on the furnace and inspect the exhaust fan (if equipped), ignition source (pilot light, glow plug or sparker), and flame to determine if it is burning with the correct color and not pulsing or weak.

• We report any anomalies with the flame or combustion chamber that would, in our opinion show possible cracks in the heat exchanger.
• We report problems with the floor structure, make-up or combustion ventilation and physical condition of the furnace.

Temperature output

On all furnaces, the final determining factor that it was functional during the inspection is that it produces hot air. We look for an air temperature at any air supply register of over 100 degrees. Additioanlly, we check for a heat source in every room of the house.

• We report on any furnace that can not produce a temperature of at least 100 degrees.
• We report any room of the house that does not contain a heat source.

“Did you inspect the water heater?”

“My water heater has a leak, didn’t you see it during the inspection?”

“How do you know the water heater was working during the inspection?”

These are all questions that I have been asked through the years (more than once). This post is designed to allow anyone to look at how a CLOSER look, inc performs a water heater inspection from a procedural perspective.

Sections on this page

1. Exterior, flooring, and age
2. Water, gas and exhaust connections
3. Combustion chamber
4. Temperature output

Exterior, flooring, and age

We start the inspection of a water heater by first looking at the outside of the tank itself. We are looking for signs of physical damage (dents or crush marks), and rust. Rust on the exterior can be a sign of a past or current water leak that may have affected the structural integrity of the tank. These same water leaks can, if left unrepaired, damage the flooring under the tank. Remember that a water heater may only be around 80 pounds empty, but a 50 gallon water heater is about 500 pounds when it is full of water. The flooring under it has be strong enough to support the weight. We also note the age of the water heater and size so that we can add this to the inspection report.

• We report any anomalies that, in our opinion, would require replacement of the water heater
• We report the make, age and size of the water heater
• We report any anomalies with the floor structure under the water heater

Water, gas and exhaust connections

Next we inspect all water supply line connections for signs of current or past leaking. We then visually inspect all gas supply lines and then “sniff” each connection that is physically accessible with a gas leak detector to ensure there are no small gas leaks. Finally, we physically try to move the exhaust pipe at the top of the tank to ensure that it is secure and has no holes or back drafts. Of course the gas and exhaust does not apply to an electric water heater.

• We report on any active water leaks and note any past leak evidence
• We report on any gas supply leaks or anomalies
• We report any unsecured exhaust pipes or other anomalies we consider to be dangerous

Combustion chamber

We visually inspect the inside of the gas combustion chamber (only on gas water heaters) for signs of rust or leaking. We then turn on the gas burner and inspect the flame to determine if it is burning with the correct color and not pulsing or weak. Then we listen for any “hissing” that might indicate water dripping into the flame.

• We report any anomalies with the flame or combustion chamber that would, in our opinion, necessitate a water heater replacement.

Temperature output

On all water heaters, the final determining factor that it was functional during the inspection is that it produces hot water. We look for a water temperature at the kitchen sink of over 100 degrees.

• We report any water heater that can not produce a temperature of at least 100 degrees.